After flushing the rear axle of the 1912 EMF with a few rounds of kerosene and then letting the rear axle drain and dry for a few days it was time to use a remote inspection camera to inspect the internals of the rear axle to see if any damage could be identified.
Pictures taken with the inspection camera (see below) quickly showed several areas of damage. Most of pinion gear teeth had damage on the front/drive shaft side of the gear. Also at least four cracked teeth could also be found on the ring gear.
In addition to both the ring and pinion gear being damaged it could be seen that the pinion key was also sheared as the pinion gear rotated freely with the ring gear while the pinion lock down nut and the main shaft did not turn.
The verdict: the rear axle will no need to come out and be torn down for repairs.
At the end of the summer the EMF was out for one of its many after work evening runs. About a mile into the run the EMF lost all forward motion. While the motor was working fine and the drive shaft was spinning at speed there was no power being transmitted to the rear tires.
When the rear axle was drained so that the axle could be expected several chunks of either ring or pinion gear came out with the oil (and these were large chunks not shavings).
1912 EMF Rear Axle Chunks
The next step will be to flush the rear axle and transmission to give a clean view for the use of a remote inspection camera to diagnose the internal gears while the axle is still together.
Getting ready for the 2013 AACA Eastern Fall Meet at Hershey PA.
This will be the first time we have taken a car to the AACA Hershey show and swap meet. We will be taking the 1912 Flanders Model 20 to the show. Over the last few weeks we have cleaned and preparing the car for the show. The car is ready and loaded on the trailer.
Enjoy some photos of the Flanders being loaded on the trailer.
Once the motor was running fairly well and everything had come up to operating temperature work moved to seeing if the clutch could be freed from the flywheel.
Up to this point the clutch has been firmly planted to the flywheel after sitting for many years of storage. The clutch type is a Borg and Beck dry twin plate clutch:
1915 Standard – Borg and Beck Clutch
The first attempt at freeing the clutch was to see if stabbing the brakes would free the clutch. With the rear axles up on jack stands and the engine was started with the transmission in 2nd gear. No problem getting the engine started in 2nd gear, and the transmission and the rear end sounded good while running in gear. While the brakes had ample grabbing power the clutch could not be freed after repeated stabs of the brake.
When method number one fails try reading the operating manual. And one of the Standard operating manuals did have a section on adjusting the clutch. This clutch has two arched slots which are 180 degrees apart. The instructions were to loosen the two lock down bolts, press in the clutch, and move the plate left or right as needed:
1915 Standard Eight: Adjusting the clutch
The locking bolts were loosened and the clutch adjusted. Before the new clutch adjustment setting was tried there was the last paragraph in the clutch section of the manual which needed to be followed. While a little earlier in the clutch instructions is was clearly called out to make sure no oil got on the dry clutch plates, the very last paragraph indicated that if the car had been in storage for an extended period and there are problems with the clutch to then remove one of the lock down bolts and add 3 tablespoons of oil through the bolt hole. This was done as directed.
With the adjustment to the clutch and the addition of the oil the car was started in 2nd gear again and with some stabs of the brakes the clutch immediately popped free. Alternating between applying the clutch and applying the brakes helped to let things heat up and get loose. We could then use the clutch to shift gears within the transmission. The car is now mobile!
The clutch adjustment still needs some finer adjustments but this will wait until the runs car for a while with it’s own full weight against the clutch.
This weekend we got back to working on getting the Standard started.
Late last week I received the new points and condenser for the distributor and had them installed and the gap set for today’s work. Again my brother came over to help with the Standard.
We left the water out of the engine until we could determine if we could get it running (easier to work without the leaks). We re-attached the battery turned on the ignition and hit the starter button. Nothing, the engine would not even turn over. As we were pondering the issue we could see the battery cables were staying hot and the starter button was staying really hot. So we concluded we had a short some place (it is good to have an electrical engineer as a sibling). Next we removed the cable to the starter so that we could isolate the starter. Using battery cables we directly applied current to the starter but it would not spin. So we pulled the starter from the engine. My brother could see that at least one of the brushes was stuck (always easier to have your EE handy). So we cleaned and dried the brushes, re-attached the battery cables, and then the starter spun easily.
We re-installed the starter and then checked the spark at the plugs. Finally good spark at each of the plugs. It appears the starter may have been our starting culprit.
Next was filling the cooling system with water again. We are down to three leaks 1) the packing nut on the water pump, 2) a small weeping leak on one of the cooling tubes, and 3) a small leak on the surface of one of the intersections on the diamond pattern radiator. The packing nut should not be a big issue so we did not spend any time today adding more packing. The radiator leak and the cooling tube leaks are very small and thus allowed us to continue to try and start the engine. Here is a photo of the cooling system topped off again and how an EE fixes a cooling tube leak:
1915 Standard Eight: Getting the engine running for the first time
1915 Standard Eight: Our temporary fix for a weeping leak
Success!! We got the motor started and it sounds great. Here is the maiden firing:
We probably ran the motor for a good 45 minutes. We had good oil pressure with no leaks, the water pump was working great (it actually would bubble/foam the water in the top of the tank), the water temp stayed even and good, and even the water leaks were manageable. We made a few carb adjustments during the 45 minutes. At the end the motor was running really smooth and when pulled 7 of the 8 plugs were a nice clean white.
Here is the motor running at the end:
A great day with the engine.