Finding Damage To The 1912 EMF Ring and Pinion Gear Using A Remote Inspection Camera

After flushing the rear axle of the 1912 EMF with a few rounds of kerosene and then letting the rear axle drain and dry for a few days it was time to use a remote inspection camera to inspect the internals of the rear axle to see if any damage could be identified.

Pictures taken with the inspection camera (see below) quickly showed several areas of damage.  Most of pinion gear teeth had damage on the front/drive shaft side of the gear.  Also at least four cracked teeth could also be found on the ring gear.

In addition to both the ring and pinion gear being damaged it could be seen that the pinion key was also sheared as the pinion gear rotated freely with the ring gear while the pinion lock down nut and the main shaft did not turn.

The verdict:  the rear axle will no need to come out and be torn down for repairs.

Not What You Want To See When Draining the Rear Axle On Your 1912 EMF

At the end of the summer the EMF was out for one of its many after work evening runs.  About a mile into the run the EMF lost all forward motion.  While the motor was working fine and the drive shaft was spinning at speed there was no power being transmitted to the rear tires.

When the rear axle was drained so that the axle could be expected several chunks of either ring or pinion gear came out with the oil (and these were large chunks not shavings).

1912 EMF Rear Axle Chunks

1912 EMF Rear Axle Chunks

The next step will be to flush the rear axle and transmission to give a clean view for the use of a remote inspection camera to diagnose the internal gears while the axle is still together.

Getting The 1912 Flanders Loaded In The Trailer For Transport To The 2013 AACA Fall Hershey Meet

Getting ready for the 2013 AACA Eastern Fall Meet at Hershey PA.

This will be the first time we have taken a car to the AACA Hershey show and swap meet.  We will be taking the 1912 Flanders Model 20 to the show.  Over the last few weeks we have cleaned and preparing the car for the show.  The car is ready and loaded on the trailer.

Enjoy some photos of the Flanders being loaded on the trailer.

Freeing The Clutch On the 1915 Standard Eight

Once the motor was running fairly well and everything had come up to operating temperature work moved to seeing if the clutch could be freed from the flywheel.

Up to this point the clutch has been firmly planted to the flywheel after sitting for many years of storage. The clutch type is a Borg and Beck dry twin plate clutch:

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1915 Standard – Borg and Beck Clutch

The first attempt at freeing the clutch was to see if stabbing  the brakes would free the clutch. With the rear axles up on jack stands and the engine was started with the transmission in 2nd gear. No problem getting the engine started in 2nd gear, and the transmission and the rear end sounded good while running in gear. While the brakes had ample grabbing power the clutch could not be freed after repeated stabs of the brake.

When method number one fails try reading the operating manual. And one of the Standard operating manuals did have a section on adjusting the clutch. This clutch has two arched slots which are 180 degrees apart. The instructions were to loosen the two lock down bolts, press in the clutch, and move the plate left or right as needed:

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1915 Standard Eight: Adjusting the clutch

The locking bolts were loosened and the clutch adjusted. Before the new clutch adjustment setting was tried there was the last paragraph in the clutch section of the manual which needed to be followed. While a little earlier in the clutch instructions is was clearly called out to make sure no oil got on the dry clutch plates, the very last paragraph indicated that if the car had been in storage for an extended period and there are problems with the clutch to then remove one of the lock down bolts and add 3 tablespoons of oil through the bolt hole.  This was done as directed.

With  the adjustment to the clutch and the addition of the oil the car was started in 2nd gear again and with some stabs of the brakes the clutch immediately popped free.  Alternating between applying the clutch and applying the brakes helped to let things heat up and get loose. We could then use the clutch to shift gears within the transmission. The car is now mobile!

The clutch adjustment still needs some finer adjustments but this will wait until the runs car for a while with it’s own full weight against the clutch.